How to Install Tile in a Bathroom Shower

  • TOOLS

    • electric screwdriver
    • spacers
    • pencil
    • sanding block
    • rubber grout float
    • mask
    • notched trowel
    • buckets
    • level
    • broom
    • tile nippers
    • sponge
    • safety glasses
    • tape measure
    • wet saw
  • MATERIALS

    • thin-set mortar
    • screws
    • marble tile
    • sanded grout
    • unsanded grout
    • fixtures

Prep the Shower Space

Once demolition of the old tile is complete, install a cement backer board in the shower area

Have a professional install a shower membrane and shower pan appropriate for the space. In our project, the shower pan is poured concrete

Measure And Dry Lay Tiles for Shower Wall

In our project, we used Crema Marfil, an Italian tumbled marble tile. The tiles come in different sizes, pre-spaced on mats. On the ceiling and floor of the shower, we used 2″ x 2″ tiles and on shower walls, 2″ x 4″ tiles.

Save time by setting several tiles at once. Before you start setting tile, take some measurements and see how the tiles will all lay out

In our project, we set the tile for the wall opposite the shower door first. Measure the top and bottom of the shower wall (ours is 82 inches long) to make sure it is straight and does not slant in or out. Tip: plan your design layout in “panels,” increments of three horizontal rows of tile.

Next, dry lay the tile panels, including any decorative borders, to see the way it’s going to set vertically on the wall. This allows you to see how many panels can fit, where you need to make cuts and where you should start setting.

In our project, the back wall is a consistent 48-1/2″ across and we used a decorative 3-inch mosaic border between the second and third panels from the top of the shower (Image 2).

To get an accurate measurement, space out exactly how you will set the panels. After dry laying, determine the best place to start setting tiles working from the bottom up. In our project, several panels and the mosaic border is 84-1/2″ tall. We started 72-1/2″ from the top of the shower. Remaining bottom panels go last because cuts will need to be made.

Step 3

Set Tiles on Shower Wall

Use a starter board as a straight edge whenever you do a vertical tile installation to ensure panels go in straight and level (Image 1).

Screw the starter board directly into the cement board and remove it after completing a series of panels. In our project, we installed the board on the shower wall at 72-1/2″ from the top. Make sure the board is level before starting to set panels along this edge.

To prevent the tiles from sliding down after they’re set, use non-sagging thinset mortar.

Use a notched trowel to spread the thinset which creates a suction to hold the stone in place as the mortar dries. Place the panel onto the thinset using the starter as a guide. Use a level to make sure tiles are straight. Once in place, push the tiles evenly into the thinset. Use your hands or a grout float to apply pressure.

Wipe the tiles with water and a clean sponge as you set them. Check the level of each row before you set the next one.

Use spacers to hold tiles in place while they dry.

If a tile is broken, pull it off the cement board and replace it with one that is intact. Put the tile up in stages, a section at a time, so the thinset doesn’t dry out.

Step 4

Set Tiles on Shower Side Walls

Measure the width of the shower walls on either side of the door. Dry lay the panels and measure them to see where you need to make cuts. In our project, one wall is 31 inches and the other is 36 inches.

Set the tile panels on the side walls with thinset, the same way as for the back wall, using the starter board. Clean the tiles with a sponge and water as you work. At the corner where there are gaps, fill in the spaces with cut tiles.

Step 5

Setting the Cut Pieces

Cut pieces will have a straight edge that will clash with the tumbled marble look of the tiles when set against the exposed edge of the shower wall. Use a sanding stone to soften the edge, rendering a tumbled look.

Set these cut pieces individually along the edge using thinset, making sure the pieces lie up straight with the outside edge

Step 6

Setting the Mosaic Border

In our project, we set a decorative 3-inch mosaic border at the top of the shower walls between the second and third panel from the top. Because the border tiles are thicker than the other tiles, apply a thinner layer of thinset.

Step 7

Complete the Shower Walls

Finish setting the tiles on all sides of the shower with thinset.

If you find that you’ve applied too much thinset and it comes through the joints, take a screwdriver and scrape the excess thinset out. When the extra thinset dries, you will have a difficult time removing it and most likely it will not match the color of the grout.

Step 8

Complete the Shower Floor

Next finish setting the shower floor with thinset. The shower floors are tiled with 2″ x 2″ tiles.

Setting the floor tiles is the same as the walls: apply thinset on the floor, slide tiles into place and pat them down with the rubber grout float. If the floor has been poured perfectly, you don’t have to worry about the pitch because all that work has been done already.

Important: Set the floor tiles last to avoid stepping on it while you tile the walls.

For the angled tiles around the drain, you will need to use a special tool to get the right shape. Mark the tile where you need to cut it. Use a tile nipper  and chip away at the mark.

When you can’t trowel the thinset directly on the surface, back butter the tiles individually with the notched trowel.

Step 9

Grout the Shower Walls

When the tile has set, mix the grout for the shower walls. Use a mix of 75 percent sanded grout and 25 percent non-sanded grout. Sanded grout is difficult to get into small joints so adding non-sanded grout helps thin it out so it can be applied more easily and aids application on walls.

Grout comes in many colors so use one that best matches your tiles. In our project, we used a cornsilk-colored grout, the same color used on the floor, in a thick oatmeal-like consistency.

Use a rubber float to apply the grout. Start at the bottom and work your way up, keeping the float at an angle to the joints.

Once all the joints in a section are filled, let it dry a little bit, then wipe the grout off the surface with a sponge and clean water.

Once the tiles have been cleaned up, allow them to set and dry.

Building a Porch Roof

Building a porch roof or screened in porch roof over an existing deck or patio can be fairly straight forward or very complex depending on the type of roof you choose. We show you how two different roofs are constructed so you will know what is involved.

Most porch roofs are typically shed roofs or variations of hip roofs.

The biggest challenge is determining the rise and run and cutting a “bird’s mouth” at the outer end of the rafters that rests on the header.

Considerations Before Starting

Here’s a few things to consider prior to building your roof:

Determine the rise and run of your home’s roof. Most porch roofs should be the same as your home’s roof. Use our handy rise and run guide to help determine yours.

Determine the type of roofing material you want to use. This is in part dictated by the rise and run. If you have a unit rise of 4 or more you can use almost any type of roof covering (asphalt shingles, tile, slate, cedar shakes, etc.) However, if your roof is 3 or less, you are limited to asphalt shingles. Consider either raising your porch roof or lowering the ceiling (8 foot is normal) to accommodate a higher unit rise to give you more options.

Determine your electrical requirements for lights, fans, and receptacles. Why would you put a receptacle in your ceiling? Installing a receptacle in the ceiling will alleviate having to run extension cords!

Note the placement of windows above your new porch roof. You must leave a minimum of at least 3 inches below the window sills.

Basic Steps for Building A Porch Roof

Installing Rafters on new front porch
Typical Shed Roof Construction

 

The following steps to building a porch roof like the one pictured above (shed or hip-type roof) will give you a general idea of how it’s done and what’s involved. We cannot cover every building method as they can vary widely from contractor to contractor.

We also do not cover every aspect in detail but will give you sufficient information you can use to assess your own abilities or to be able to ask the right questions of a contractor.

Do not use the following information as a “how-to” guide; it is forinformation only.

We highly recommend that if you are not 100% confident you can do the work safely and to code that you consult with a professional licensed contractor.

STEP 1: Know Codes and Permit Requirements

Know and comply with your local building codes regarding roof construction in your area. In addition, pull the proper permits as required. Many people, especially do-it-yourselfers, do not like to get permits due to time and costs. However, doing so ensures that your work is to code in order to protect you, your family, and your property. In addition, many insurance companies may not pay claims in situations where work was not to code. Words to the wise!

STEP 2: Determine Rise and Run

the rise and the runWhen building a porch roof you have to determine the rise and run of your porch roof. Normally, you will want to replicate the same rise and run you have on the main roof of your home. Sometimes this is not feasible due to window placement but you want to get as close to it as possible.

Next, determine the location on your wall where you will attach the rafter plate to get the proper rise and run. Our basic rafter length calculator will give you a general idea of how long your rafters must be for a given rise and run.

STEP 3: Mark Rafter Plate Location and Remove Siding (if applicable)

Rafter Plate from belowNow that you know the rise and run, you know where to place the rafter plate on your wall. Make sure it is at least 3 inches below any windows allowing for the thickness of your roofing materials (at least 2 inches).

On our building a porch roof project depicted by the photos on this page, the rafter plate and ledger board were already exposed after we removed the old porch.



Snap a horizontal chalk line at this point a minimum of the length of the flooring below. This will be your “upper” line measurement for the rafter plate.

Measure down from this line the width of your rafter plate. Usually, it is a 2×6 board, so in this case, measure down approximately 6 inches. Snap a horizontal line at the mark – it is your “lower” rafter plate line. These two lines represent the location of your rafter plate.

Carefully remove the siding contained within those lines to expose the wall studs or other supporting material. Disregard if placing rafter plate on brick, etc.

STEP 4: Install the Rafter Plate

Fasten the rafter plate to the wall studs with lag screws. However, this may not always be the case. Sometimes you may run into an I-beam or truss situation. A different fastening system will need to be used in those cases.

STEP 5: Locate Column Positions

Snap a chalk line on top of your porch or deck on the outside line of the beam that supports your flooring. You’ll have to locate the beam underneath (usually visible from each end).

You will locate, as a minimum, one column on each end at least 3 inches in from the corners and one every 6 to 10 feet apart. Consider openings for stairs when determining the actual placement of columns You will typically need one on each side of the stairs. As a rule of thumb, try to use an odd number of columns; it’s more aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

Check with your codes department to ensure you set the right amount based on the width and type of roof being constructed when building a porch roof.

Setting The Initial Column
Setting First Column

 

NOTE: Everything outlined above pertains to decks and patios also. However, you may have to make a few adjustments:

Decks: You still need to attach columns to the beam under your deck. Depending on how your deck was constructed you may need to reinforce the beam to carry the column and roof. Check local code requirements.

Patios: For patios, attached your column anchors to the concrete with the appropriate fasteners. There are several different types on the market and your local home supply store should be able to assist. If you have other than a poured concrete patio, you should review our porch foundation section.

 


ASSUMPTION: We are making the assumption that your porch floor is level. Care must be taken at every step to ensure all columns, beams, headers, etc., are level and plumb.

 

STEP 6: Erect Columns

Setting Up First Column



Before installing columns be sure you’ve selected the right column design for your porch – check out our columns section to learn more about them.


Place a column in the anchor on one end of the decking, plumb, and secure properly. You may need to brace the column while you continue.

On this building a porch roof project, a beam is placed against the ledger board and fastened to the top of the end column. Plumb and square the column. Brace as necessary. (This board may not be required in your situation. If you don’t have a ledger board, you will need to create blocking to accept the beam. Use the same procedure for installing a rafter board above).

Repeat this on the other end as well.

I’ve seen and done this several different ways. One is to anchor and brace all of the columns. Another is to anchor and brace the outside columns and then anchor the header on each end. It depends on the length and height of your roof.

The main goal is to make sure the columns are square to the house and the floor.

On this particular project, we reused the old header and due to it’s length, installed it on columns in sections as depicted below.

STEP 7: Set the Header

Setting header

 

Setting the header

You will normally build a header out of 2×6 or 2×8 planks. Sandwich a piece of 1/2 inch plywood in between the boards and nail together. When building a porch roof, the header carries most of the weight of the roof. Ensure that it is substantial. Place the header on top of the columns and secure by toe nailing. Continue this process the length of the porch.

STEP 8: Cut and Install Rafters

Setting header

 

Setting header

Before you install the rafters you will have to make special cuts called “tails” and “bird mouths”. These notches are designed to fit against the rafter board and over the header. You will need a rafter square in order to lay out the cuts on the boards. Building a porch roof requires accurate measurements.

Although not difficult, laying out the cuts to fit precisely requires practice and skill. We provide a link below to information regarding how to calculate and make these special cuts.

STEP 9: Install Supports

Installing supports

 

Installing supports

For this building a porch roof project, we needed to provide nailing support for siding and to enclose the ends. We did this by installing jack studs and plywood on each end of the roof.

STEP 10: Install Fascia Board

Setting fascia board

A fascia board is installed on the rafter tails. Gutters will be attached to this later. Although we did not use them on this porch roof, you could install “lookouts” that attach to the end of the rafter tail and the header. These provide a flat surface on which to nail the soffits.

STEP 11: Apply Sheathing and Roofing Materials

Installing SheathingRoofing felt

Sheathing (1/2 inch plywood or OSB) is nailed to the rafters. Once completed, roofing paper will be installed. Then attach drip edge over the roofing paper. When building a porch roof, asphalt shingles (or other roofing material) are then attached over the roofing paper and drip edge.

Often Asked Question: We are often asked how to integrate a new porch roof’s shingles with those on an existing home if the roof line is extended over the porch. Here’s an easy way to do it!

 

Install wiring

As you can see in the picture above, now is the time to install your electrical wiringfor lights, fans, and receptacles according to your plan.

Planning to install outdoor ceiling fans now or in the future. Now’s the time to add additional blocking to support the fans!

TIP: If building a porch roof (or any roof) in snow country you should consider using an ice and water barrier along the edge of the roof line. It usually comes in three-foot rolls and prevents damage from ice dams that may form on your roof.



STEP 12: Wrap Exposed Wood

Installing aluminum wrapInstalling aluminum wrap

Aluminum flashing is used to wrap the exposed wood on the beams and sides. A special machine is needed to bend the flashing to fit over the wood. It really helps to have experience prior to attempting this to ensure it looks good on your home.

How to lay a patio

This is a fairly simple project but paving can be heavy so you may need some help. Depending on the size of your patio, the project could take you two to three days.

Before you get started on any of our ‘how to’ guides, please take a moment to read through our DIY safety tips.

Step 1. Planning your patio

  • Once you’ve decided where your patio is going, draw a detailed plan to scale on graph paper. Put in all the dimensions of the patio area.
  • Mark permanent fixtures on the plan – the house, walls, fencing and manhole covers. You have to pave around the covers and they can affect the level of the patio. Also mark on trees and large plants.
  • If you don’t want to cut slabs, go for a ‘chessboard’ layout or one of the ranges that come with half-slabs.
  • Staggering paving (like a brickwork finish) or laying a random pattern of different sized blocks usually means you’ll have to cut slabs to get a straight border. Seek advice before you cut slabs.
  • The surface of your patio must be at least 150mm below the damp proof course of the house so rain doesn’t bounce off and hit the wall above.
  • Your patio must have a gradual slope away from the house to ensure all water drains off. Allow a drop of about 25mm in every 1.5m (fig. 1) or alternatively install a drainage channel.
  • Allow 10mm-30mm between slabs for fettled edge, natural stone or heavily riven slabs. Leave 10mm-15mm for straight edge slabs.
Make a slope on the patio to make sure water drains away from your house. This should be a 25mm drop for every 1500mm of patio.
Figure 1

Step 2. Measuring up

  • Calculate the area of your patio in square metres. Each pack of paving slabs shows the area it covers. Using a single size slab? Then simply divide the area of your patio by the area covered by one pack to see how many packs you need.
  • If you’re using different size slabs, the calculation is more complicated and you should ask for advice.

Step 3. Marking out the patio

  • Accurately transfer your plan to the ground with wooden pegs, a builder’s square and string.
  • Mark lines on the wooden pegs to show the depth of working – i.e. the finished level of your hardcore, bedding mortar and the surface of the patio slabs.
  • Make sure the marks for the top surface are level with any existing paving and manhole covers (fig. 2).
  • Remember to allow for a gradual slope away from the house when putting in your wooden pegs (fig. 1).
Lines can be drawn on the pegs to indicate the depth for working.
Figure 2

Step 4. Preparing the base

  • Remove any turf, plants or paving and dig down to a depth of about 150mm to allow for the foundations.
  • To lay a solid base for your paving slabs, you first need a layer of hardcore to a depth of about 50mm to 80mm (fig. 3) over the area of your patio.
  • Use a rake to distribute the hardcore, evening out any bumps. You could hire a powered wacker plate to compress the hardcore to give a good solid base.
  • Add a layer of bedding mortar over the compacted hardcore (fig. 3).
Compacted hardcore flattened with a powered wacker plate forms the solid, flat sub-base for the bedding mortar and paving
Figure 3

Step 5. Laying down the paving slabs

  • Before you lay your slabs, check with a builder’s square that the string guide lines are square to the house (fig. 4). If not, adjust the guide lines.
  • Lay down the first slab against the house at the corner, checking its alignment with the string guideline. It’s important that the first slab is positioned accurately.
  • Gently tap the slab to the correct level with a club hammer. Use a block of wood to protect the slab (fig. 5).
  • Check the alignment of the slab with a spirit level but allow for the slope away from the house.
  • Carry on until you’ve laid all the paving slabs. Do a final check to make sure they’re all level.
Helpful hint…

Buy all your paving slabs at the same time so you don’t get variations in colour and texture.

Before you lay the first slab, use a builder's square to check the string guide lines are square to the house.
Figure 4
Slabs can be gently tapped until they're the correct level.
Figure 5

Step 6. Pointing (filling the gaps between the slabs)

  • Once your slabs are laid, leave the mortar to dry for at least 24 hours before ‘pointing’ (filling) the gaps between them. This mortar stops your slabs moving and prevents weeds from growing in the gaps.
  • To make up your pointing mortar, use a semi-dry mixture consisting of four parts building sand to one part cement. Make sure the mortar is only just wet – this will prevent shrinkage.
  • Test the mortar by taking a handful and squeezing it. It should stay as a firm wet ball when you open your fingers and not crumble (too dry) or ooze water (too wet). Adjust the consistency by adding water if it’s too dry or more sand and cement (pre-mixed to the correct ratio) if it’s too wet.
  • Press the mortar into the gaps with the edge of a trowel.
  • Brush off any surplus mortar before it’s completely dry with a semi-stiff brush. Finally, wash the slabs with a damp sponge and clean water to remove all traces of cement.

Step 7. Letting the mortar dry out

  • If you’re laying your patio in the summer, make sure the mortar doesn’t dry out too quickly as it could crumble.
  • In colder weather protect the drying mortar from rain or frost with polythene sheeting.
  • It will be 24 hours or longer before your patio can be used. That will give it time to dry properly.

Step 8. Maintaining your patio

  • If you want to seal the patio to stop water seepage or fading, check the manufacturer’s recommendations. Applying a sealant to paving may affect the colour.
  • If the patio freezes, using salt could damage the surface. Instead get rid of snow and ice with a plastic shovel or stiff brush.
  • Every three months it’s worth checking for loose or damaged slabs and making sure the pointing is intact.
  • Look for stains such as alcohol, barbecue fat, chewing gum or bird droppings. Give the stains an intensive cleaning treatment (always follow manufacturer’s instructions).
Helpful hint…

Have you got a pressure washer? Use it on a low setting for cleaning your patio. Point it at an angle facing away from the slabs. Don’t use it too hard or too close to the slabs or you’ll damage the surface of your paving

Designing Floor Systems For Optimal Performance

When designing a wood-framed floor system for residential projects, building to meet the applicable codes is only one step in the design process. Having met code requirements, there is an array of choices a designer must consider that impact the day-to-day use of the floor.
The size and depth of Trus Joist® TJI® joists and related framing members, and their on-center spacing, as well as the thickness of the subfloor and the manner in which they are installed, directly influence how the floor will feel and perform over time. Taking the time to consider the floor as a system solution as a part of the project design, beyond simply complying with code requirements, can contribute directly to occupant satisfaction and their perceptions of overall quality.

Assessing the Challenges
Various floor assembly components will affect a floor’s performance.

Basic stiffness
This is a combination of joist depth and span. Greater basic stiffness increases frequency and assembly stiffness. For a given span, increasing the joist depth results in the greatest increase in basic stiffness.

Joist spacing and deck stiffness
Reduced joist spacing or increased deck thickness generally improves floor performance by increasing assembly stiffness.

Composite action
‘Composite action’ is a measure of how the assembly’s deck component interacts with the joist to effectively increase basic stiffness. Increasing stiffness (i.e., thicker deck) and/or use of construction adhesives increases composite action.

Continuity
Joists that are continuous over several supports generally enhance floor performance because a joist in a continuous span would deflect less than the same joist in a simple span application. Care must be taken if such joists continue into an adjoining occupancy as these members can transmit vibration and sound through the floor assembly.

Ceilings
A directly applied (not suspended) gypsum ceiling or strapping—minimum 1×4 applied flat to the joist at 1.5 m (5 ft) on-centre (o.c.) or less—improves floor performance. Assembly stiffness and damping are slightly increased.

Bridging/blocking
Bridging/blocking and strapping properly installed at 2.4 m (8 ft) o.c. or less enhance floor performance. Bridging/blocking and strapping should be continuous from wall to wall (or support beam) and evenly spaced along the floor span. When there are interruptions from HVAC equipment—such as a duct running parallel to the joists in the floor cavity—or changes in joist depth, there must be proper consideration for detailing.

Beams
When joists are supported on beams, there is a small increase in deflection under normal working loads, which slightly reduces floor performance. Beams designed for relatively large tributary floor areas have less effect.
Additional contributing factors
Full-height framed partitions that are transverse to the joist and away from supports have the effect of damping vibrations, which improves floor performance. However, such partitions must be solidly connected to the floor assembly.

It is important to remember a floor assembly deflects even under light working loads. Bridging that splits during installation and ductwork that rubs against joists, can produce noise that may reduce the floor’s perceived quality.
The most effective and economical technique for ensuring good floor performance is the identification of the proper depth, series and spacing for the joist during the design phase. A deeper, stiffer joist is typically the most economical solution for increasing floor performance for a given span.

Problem Areas
Although it is important to ensure all of the structure meets strength and service requirements, there are a few areas of a floor more likely to attract attention from occupants.

Long spans next to short spans
In a room in which an area of long span joists occur next to short span joists, the occupant may perceive the floor to be more solid in the areas with the short spans. To accommodate these differences in floor performance, designers can tighten the spacing of the joists or specify stiffer joists.

Long spans combined with higher dead loads
In multi-family projects, open floor plans, combined with heavy kitchen islands or concrete toppings, can be another trouble spot. To reduce the possibility of unacceptable vibration, the size of members under the dead load can be increased, or spacing tightened up, even when the code allows for wider spacing.

Joists used to their maximum spans
When reaching the maximum strength or deflection limit for a certain joist, the floor system may be economical and strong enough, but it also may undergo more deflection or bounce than expected. Depending on the client’s expectations, it may be better to consider an alternative, stiffer floor assembly, and evaluate the effect on performance to make the best system choice.

Performance Versus Cost
While it is desirable to specify a very stiff floor with minimal deflection, there are always economic considerations that may not make this approach reasonable. Weyerhaeuser has developed a proprietary system called TJ-ProTM Ratings that predicts floor performance based on assembly inputs and assigns a rating value. The TJ-Pro Ratings helps specifiers determine a floor system design that offers a balance between desired performance and cost. Builders can dial in floor feel by evaluating the combined effects of TJI joist series, depth, spacing and other system parameters, such a deck thickness, leading to a floor that meets the performance expectations of each homeowner.
The rating system can be targeted to different client preferences or even to individual areas of the floor, taking into consideration how different rooms will be used and occupied. For example, a condo’s rec room designed for entertaining might target a different rating than the dining area or kitchen.
For more information on the TJ-Pro Ratings, click here.

Upfront Decisions
Even when built to code, many engineered wood floor systems still have room for performance improvements that can reduce the likelihood of vibration and subsequent occupant discomfort. Design choices upfront—such as joist spacing, stiffness or span continuity—can significantly affect the floor system performance. “Performance-focused” design utilizing software and balancing economic factors, combined with reasonable care during installation, can help avoid potential occupant dissatisfaction down the road.

9 Steps To Prevent Floor Squeaks

A beautiful, high-performance floor starts with what you can’t see—a stable floor frame and subfloor underneath. Simple installation mistakes can lead to squeaky floors or damaged finishes, along with the cost and hassle of associated callbacks.

Get it right the first time by following these installation best practices:

  1. Use the Right Materials. Choose dimensionally stable framing products. Wet or “green” lumber may lead to dimensional changes as the joists dry, resulting in nail pops, bumps in the finished floor, and squeaks. Use Trus Joist® TJI® joists or kiln-dried, performance-tested lumber, such as Weyerhaeuser Framer Series® lumber, which is more dimensionally stable than green lumber. Make sure joist size and spacing meet or exceed code-minimum requirements and that the panels are adequate for the applied loads, joist spacing, and floor system chosen. Inadequate joists or panels can result in excessive deflection, causing nail pops and squeaks.
  2. Space Panels Properly. To avoid buckling, subfloor panels should be spaced with a 1/8-inch gap at all edges and ends to provide room for naturally occurring expansion. Tongue-and-groove edges on many premium floor panels, such as Weyerhaeuser’s Edge Gold® OSB panels, are designed to self-gap.
  3. Let the Subfloor Dry. Always store floor panels under cover. OSB exposed during construction must be allowed to dry (especially before installing sensitive finish materials such as hardwood flooring). Allow panels to acclimate before installing.
  4. Nail Panels Correctly. To avoid nail pops, pullouts, and shiners (nails that barely hit the joist), all of which can cause squeaks, use the correct nail size and spacing, and ensure the nails penetrate the floor joists and sink fully. Generally, nails (6d ring or screw shank, or 8d common) should be spaced 6 inches on center along supported panel edges and 12 inches on center on the panels’ interior supports, or as specified on the construction drawings. Many manufacturers print a fastener template directly on the panel face. For panels thicker than 1 inch, 10d nails should be used.
  5. Use Glue-Nailed Construction. A glued and nailed floor system is optimal for ensuring a flat, stable floor. Use a solvent-based glue that meets ASTM D3498 performance standards; in cases where latex subfloor glue is required, careful selection is necessary due to the wide range of performance between brands.
  6. Apply Glue Properly. Apply adhesive per manufacturer’s specifications. Be sure the joists are dry and free of dirt before applying. Many manufacturers recommend applying a continuous ¼-inch-diameter glue bead to framing members and using a serpentine pattern for supports that are 3½ inches or wider. Apply two beads of glue to panel joint locations; a 1/8-inch glue bead applied at the tongue-and-groove joints can further improve floor performance.
  7. Don’t Let Glue Dry. Apply only enough glue for one or two panels at a time, and completely fasten each panel before the glue is set. Check manufacturer specs for setting times, and keep in mind that warm weather can accelerate those times.
  8. Don’t Hammer Panel Edges. Using a sledgehammer to force a tongue-and-groove joint together tightly can crush the wood fibers, damaging both the panel hit as well as the one it is forced into. Further, it can close up the necessary gap on panel edges, leading to improper spacing issues mentioned above. If additional force is needed, always use a block of wood against the groove edge to minimize damage to the panel, and always allow a 1/8-inch gap between panels.
  9. Check Your Work. Prior to finished floor installation, walk the subfloor to check for squeaks, missing fasteners, improper nailing, etc.

Simple strategies such as these can help provide flooring systems that are sturdy, stable, and squeak-free.

Too late? If you’re dealing with squeaky floors caused by wet lumber, inadequate spacing, improper nailing, improper blocking, rubbing ductwork, or other issues, there are remedies. For strategies to diagnose and fix the problems, download Weyerhaeuser’s Technical Resource Sheet “Prevention and Repair of Floor System Squeaks.”

4 Strategies To Reduce Jobsite Framing Waste

Excess or unused wood accounts for up to 40% of jobsite waste, according to estimates from the NAHB. Too many builders, contractors and dealers accept waste as an unavoidable consequence of construction and remodeling, with not enough consideration being given to how waste adds to a project’s cost.

Most estimators, for example, are still commonly including an additional 8% to 12% to factor in waste management.

Hauling even a small amount of unused or excess wood back to the dealer yard or to a landfill or recycling center adds up in both direct product costs as well as also in coordination time, and it lowers capacity of the framing crew and the servicing dealer.

Waste is pervasive, but it doesn’t have to be. Here are four approaches to consider that can help reduce the excess that saps framing budgets and schedules.

Plan Ahead

Advanced planning and collaborative communication are the best first step toward limiting framing waste. Although planning ahead happens on nearly every project today, most framing and other trade subcontractors arrive on the jobsite and find that what they were expecting isn’t what’s actually there.

Finding a way for all parties to collaborate on framing layouts before arriving at the jobsite can ensure everybody gets what they are expecting and that redundancies and excess time and material requirements are eliminated. Planning also should include periodic discussions with suppliers to ensure things like product inventories are in sync.

Because framing waste is both a function of materials and time, consideration might also be given to the cost/benefit of prefabrication and automation for walls, roofs and floors. These techniques reinforce the ‘Plan Ahead’ concept and allow for continuous review and improvement in usage of time and material for builders and contractors that are serious about waste management.

View The Frame As A System

When it comes to reducing waste specifically from framing, you have to look at the product as being part of a system rather than an individual piece. This “system” should naturally entail maximizing the use of materials.

Employ Advanced Framing Practices

Green building advocates have long promoted the practice of advanced framing techniques—including 2×6 studs spaced 24 inches on center—to cut back on the amount of framing lumber required for a job (not to mention the ample energy efficiency benefits). For example, advanced framing headers replace unnecessary wood materials with space for cavity insulation, while ladder junctions at wall intersections cut down on blocking material.

Leverage Technology

Combined with better planning and communication, software technology can help identify the most material-efficient methods for framing each house.

For example, Forte® software, a load-calculating program for sizing joists, beams, posts or studs, identifies solutions for specific field conditions, and can size for spacing, member depth or simply the optimum economical fit. One of the advantages of Forte is that it allows users to compare and contrast engineered wood and commodity lumber side by side to determine which design would be the most appropriate and efficient.

Javelin® software, a design tool (pictured above), allows customers to compose a complete 3D model of the entire structural frame. Part of the design process allows for elimination of redundancies and unnecessary materials, while increasing order and cutting accuracy at the dealer or builder level.

Builders whose suppliers use Weyerhaeuser’s NextPhase® Site Solutions can further rely on precise materials. The tool combines design and fabrication software with cutting equipment to deliver cost-efficient, structurally superior floor framing packages that take any guesswork out of installation and virtually eliminate both material and labor waste.

By combining these and other technologies with a collaborative, systems-based approach, crews can begin to dramatically reduce the amount of wood waste on site.

The Built-Up Column Conundrum

It is common practice in residential construction to use multiple pieces of 2x lumber conn­­ected together (sometimes referred to as “stud packs”) to build interior columns. One rule of thumb is to install enough studs to match the width of the beam above. But how do you determine if the field-built column is really strong enough to support the load?

Critical Structural Element

Today’s architectural styles demand wide-open spaces. With the use of modern engineered wood products we are able to span farther than ever. This flexibility means we are regularly supporting very large concentrated loads throughout the structure. The capacity of the built-up column is often overlooked.

Complex Calculations

It’s difficult to find a capacity table for traditional lumber built-up columns due to the many assumptions required for the calculations. You certainly won’t find the answers in the building code. When properly connected together, the capacity of built-up columns can be calculated using the National Design Specification for Wood Construction (NDS). To calculate the capacity you’ll need to decide how the column is braced and if the load is centered on the column or offset. The calculation takes into account the slip between the pieces that will occur even when well connected. In most cases, even a properly connected freestanding, built-up column will have about 60% of the strength of a solid column of the same material.

Complex Connections

The really tricky part may be installing proper connections. For the stud packs to behave as built-up columns, the studs must be attached in accordance with the NDS requirements. Stud packs that are not properly attached act more like individual studs and do not gain additional design capacity that a properly fastened member would achieve. Furthermore, the NDS allows for a maximum of five full-height laminations of the same depth. Built-up columns with more than five laminations should be evaluated by a design professional.

Section 15.3.3 of the NDS gives very specific requirements for nailing the pieces together. In addition to end, edge and row spacing guidelines, the NDS requires adjacent nails to be driven from opposite sides of the post or column. All nails must penetrate all the pieces and at least three-quarters of the way into the outermost lamination. While 10d x 3″ nails are OK for 2-ply columns, anything greater will need a very large nail. For example, a proper connection for a 3-ply 2×6 built-up column is two rows of 30d common nails with a length of 4 ½″ installed every 8″. These nails may not be readily available at your local lumberyard and with a 0.207″ diameter, certainly won’t fit in your standard nail gun. At an 8’ height assuming #2 spruce-pine-fir, the capacity of this column is less than 8,000 pounds. As an alternative, a solid 5.25″ x 5.25″ Parallam® PSL column (slightly wider) will support 26,650 pounds.

Bolts are another connection option worth considering. Similar to nailed connections, installers must be very careful to follow the NDS end, edge and row spacing requirements. The NDS uses ½″ diameter bolts with washers on both sides. Although they take more effort to install relative to nails, the bolted column will only achieve a slightly higher column capacity.

Solid Support

Solid section Parallam PSL and TimberStrand® LSL columns are strong and consistent. By combining these solid columns with the strength of Parallam PSL and TimberStrand LSL beams, longer spans and open floor plans are not only possible but also more easily and efficiently achievable.

Both products offer solid section performance, consistent design properties, long lengths, visual appeal and a comprehensive product warranty, while also eliminating waste and reducing installation time.

It’s easy to see why solid-section engineered wood columns are the best choice for supporting heavy loads. For more information, visit www.woodbywy.com.

The Science Behind The Strength

Engineered for consistent performance, Parallam® Parallel Strand Lumber is one of the strongest engineered wood products available. This post examines the science behind the product, and why it’s such a reliable long-span, heavy load beam solution.

Manufactured in Delta, British Columbia and Buckhannon, West Virginia, Parallam is made primarily from Douglas fir in the west and yellow poplar/southern yellow pine in the east. Once harvested, the logs are debarked and peeled into veneers from which they are cut into strands. Adhesive is applied to the dried strands and then they are aligned in a trough prior to manufacturing the Parallam PSL billet. A microwave press then cures the adhesives. Finally the product is cooled and cut to the final sizes.

Parallam PSL is manufactured into solid sections with widths of 3.5”, 5.25” and 7” and depths up to 18”. Using solid sections reduces the labor and cost of fastening a multiple member together. In addition, the solid section has greater lateral stablility than a typical built up member. This increased stability may reduce the amount of required compression edge bracing. Additionally, the solid section (in specific sizes) can be utilized as heavy timber construction as allowed in the International Building Code (IBC).

Beam, Column and Header Grades

Parallam PSL is manufactured in 1.8E, 2.0E and 2.2E grades, depending on the region it is produced in (and ultimately sold in) and the typical end use application. 1.8E Parallam PSL is designated as columns in our literature and is available in 3.5”, 5.25” and 7” widths and depths up to 7”. Being one solid piece, Parallam PSL used as a column will provide a very high vertical load capacity without the question of how to fasten it together like one has with built-up members (see Built-Up Column Conundrum blog for more on this). Because the columns are the same dimensions as our engineered wood beams, the columns provide full width bearing to the beams above, possibly eliminating the need for expensive column caps. But don’t let the label ‘column product’ limit its use. 1.8E Parallam PSL can be used in beam and header applications as well, see ESR-1387 for design properties or download Forte, our free single member sizing software, where it can be sized in horizontal orientation as a header or beam.

2.0E/2.2E Parallam PSL is typically considered a beam product due to the larger depths available (3.5”, 5.25” and 7” widths and depths up to 18”) which are ideal for long spans and heavy loads. 2.2Eproduct is a regional product stocked in the Pacific Northwest (California, Oregon and Washington State) and Western Canada only.  Just as with the 1.8E product, don’t let the label ‘beam product’ limit its use, it can be used as a column as well. Technical bulletin TB-604 was produced to give specifiers a quick reference guide for 2.0E/2.2E Parallam PSL used as a column where a very high load capacity is required. Our beam products specifier guide, TJ-9000, is also great resource for available sizes, grades, design properties and span charts.

Exterior Solutions

For applications such as exterior decks, or other areas where resistance to termites and fungal decay is required, we offer Parallam Plus PSL. The product is made from southern yellow pine and is treated at Weyerhaeuser-authorized treating facilities in partnership with Arch Wood Protection, Inc. It is kiln-dried after treatment and is backed by a 30-year limited warranty. The column products are treated with CCA to a retention level that allows for ground or fresh water contact, as well as salt water splash (use category 4B (UC4B) per the American Wood Protection Association (AWPA) use category system). Beam products are treated with Copper Azole (CA-C) and are acceptable to be used in applications defined by use category 4A (UC4A) per the AWPA. Due to the treatment differences, beam products may not be appropriate for column applications. Our specifier guide TJ-7102 discusses in further detail the available sizes, use category definitions as well as providing framing and cladding details along with an extensive Q&A on the product. In addition, the blog ‘What’s so special about Parallam® Plus PSL’ provides an in-depth review of the product.

For projects in flood prone areas, including coastal construction zones, Weyerhaeuser has developed two technical bulletins to educate and assist the design community in meeting various construction requirements. TB-213 discusses in depth the requirements for flood damage-resistant material. TB-217 discusses the use of Parallam Plus PSL in coastal construction (and reconstruction), including design and detailing for beam to pier construction.

With its unique grain and appearance, Parallam PSL has been the choice for many non-traditional applications. Everything from shelving, stair treads, table tops to exposed members that add an exotic look to a project, Parallam PSL might be the answer for your unique application.